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A Dark Spring in Dharamsala

Pro-Tibet protests have been following the Olympic torch around the world but in Dharamsala, the Tibetan capital-in-exile, protests are a daily event. Even though the atmosphere is tense, BERNADETTE LUDWIG (an Australian running a cafe in Dharamsala) urges tourists not to stay away but to boycott the Olympics instead.

And "BANG" it's springtime here. It doesn't burst - it explodes. White, white, soft white flocks of cabbage butterflies flutter. Escaped almond blossom swirl in spring breezes draping the valley like gentle snowflakes. White peaks smash the sun's rays everywhere and call up the moon to bright starlit nights. It's as if the clouds had melted to kiss the earth. And in the middle of this incredulous, incandescent beauty -"BANG"

These days are dark with the black side of human nature. The stain of violence, torture and repression. The midnight nightmare which festers as a cancer. The example of this cancer is everywhere in Dharamsala. Against the white, there is blood. Huge posters showing the black, blue bruised and bloody dead hang around the town like some awful Kali necklace. The dead which China denies. Truth can be bitter but truth must be told and truth must be seen.

One particular poster, I force myself to stare at every day. A sixteen year old Tibetan girl, Lhundup Tso, shot in the back of the head with the bullet exploding out of the front of her face. She could have been my daughter. She could have been one of my daughter's teenage friends. They also shot a 5 year old and a pregnant woman on the same day.

Tibetans are no mythical creatures from an imaginary Shang-Ri-La but are flesh and blood people like all of us. And there are jealousies and resentments between the local Indian community and the Tibetan community but these differences have become little now. Every day the Tibetans march - every one of them, from toddlers to the very old - carrying the Tibetan flag high. The very air breathes of their frustration and hurt.

We hear them coming - "Free Tibet" rumbles around the mountains - Cholo screams to the sky and in our restaurant we make our meagre symbol of support. The bright, warm spring sun beats down and we and our Indian staff run out with buckets of filtered water. Our cobalt blue glasses flash into the hands of our parched, upset Tibetans with tears of frustration flashing in their eyes. They wear pictures of the dead around their necks and I see a picture of Lhundup Tso as she was in life. I have to bite my cheeks so that I don't cry.

In the biggest demonstration so far we must have given out almost a thousand glasses of water. I looked over and there was my tall, oh so proud Brahmin who orders people to bring him a glass of water. He had been running backwards and forwards to the kitchen filling the buckets. Sweat was pouring off him, his shirt was crumpled and his hair a mess. I've never seen him more beautiful. And I realized - this is why I am here - this is why this is my community - this is why this is my home. And we need people here desperately - foreign missions are warning people to stay away from Dharamsala. There is nothing here to be frightened of unless you fear the truth. These are achingly peaceful protests led by monks and nuns.

The Indian government has demanded that westerners do not join the demonstrations. But they need your support. The least we can do is bear witness. If you don't march - you can stand by the road and cheer them on. You can help us give out water. You can use their restaurants, travel agencies and hotels to keep the local economy going. And for those so inclined - you can pray for and with them. Above all don't go to China for the Olympic games - come here for the Tibetan Olympics.

I have great sympathy for the athletes who have trained and worked so hard to participate in these Olympic games. It is not their fault that these Olympics are being held in China. That these Olympics will forever be stained. That in these Olympics they run on tracks made of crushed bodies, emerge from swimming pools dripping with blood and play on fields of hovering souls whose spirits when alive could not be broken by this brutal, repressive government.

No doubt one event the Chinese will do well at is shooting - particularly as 5 year olds, 16 year olds and pregnant women have been used as target practice. It's not sporting.

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Almost everyone in the country is now buying and selling in foreign currency, rendering the Zimbabwe dollar almost worthless on the domestic market.

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